Most of the regulars were trapped in the Ussher Library feverishly writing essays (at least a couple on ranking US Presidents), so Sean and I left without them for Saint Michan's Church and its mummies. Built a few blocks from the north bank of the Liffey, the Church traces its history to a Viking chapel from 1095, with the current structure dating from the 17th century.
Before descending into the crypts below, the tour commences with a visit to the interior (3 euro, student - which Sean and I somehow avoided paying). Four elements of note are held within: a sizable pipe organ is said to have been used by Handel to compose the Messiah as the Cathedrals would not permit him time to practice, the stain glass window was replaced in the 20th century, and is from a city church that was deconsecrated around the same time that Saint Michan's window was destroyed during the revolution; the coverlet on the altar was purchased in a fish market following the theft of the original; and a movable kneeling post was once used for individuals to confess their sins publicly as they were wheeled around the Church.
Following the tour of the interior, we followed another guide, with a flair for compelling storytelling, outside to the bulkheads that seal the crypts. The first crypt was stunted - blocked by a younger wall then those buffeting its sides - but held the Church's famous mummies. Opening coffins is a crime in Ireland (as in all countries?) so the four on display represent individuals who slipped out of broken containers.
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| Saint Michan's Church, sadly no photography was permitted in the crypts |
As our guide explained, the combination of a dry environment, moisture-absorbing limestone walls, and methane gas released from the floor preserved the bodies in remarkable conditions (although with less hair than the bog people). The two female mummies lack any peculiar characteristics beyond their preserved condition. One of the males is missing his feet and his right arm. The feet are likely missing due to a conflict between his height and the size of the coffin, while the hand could represent thievery (but how was he buried below a Church?), an accident, or warfare.
Beyond the other three individuals, the mummy of most interest is the purported 800-year-old Crusader, identified by the cross made by his thighs. More impressive though is his height at 6 foot 6 inches, tall today, and a near giant for his time (his legs are broken to fit in the casket). Although a small metal grate blocks the entrance to the tomb, it serves as a misdirection, as the guide allowed us to move inside to "shake hands" with the Crusade by rubbing his exposed hand for luck.
The second crypt boasted several still-in-use rooms, or at least rooms that may still be used by their respective families. However, the one boasting the Earls of Kenmare is illuminated as the last interned Earl was unpopular among his family - and buried in an unadorned coffin to contrast his roommates' adorned in gold (the tomb was later disowned). Just a few cells away are artifacts and two revolutionaries from the 1798 Rebellion.
Following the Church, we continued along the Liffey until we reached Collins Barracks, now the Art and Decorative History Museum. The name is inadequate for the collection boasted within the massive quadrangle-based structure. Inside are weapons and artifacts from throughout Ireland's military history - including the coat worn by Michael Collins when he was assassinated. In contrast to the Imperial War Museum in London, the Barracks exhibits tell a tale of failed rebellions, the Irish diaspora serving in foreign armies, and the modern contributions to United Nations peacekeeping forces. However, the wealth of artifacts drawn from such foreign involvement, as well as the free admission, made the visit more than worthwhile.
After lunch, Sean and I were joined by John at MacTorcaills to watch the Six Nations Rugby match between Ireland and England as hosted in Dublin at the Aviva Stadium. Having just lost to Wales in a poorly contested match, and knowing that England was destined to win the tournament, Ireland played for pride and to deny their opponents the grand slam (an undefeated victory). In a downpour uncharacteristic of the last few sunny days, Ireland trounced England 24-8 in a style that never permitted the Roses to contend the match.
Following the match (and dinner) I completed the final stage of my PolitiCorps application - a 1 minute video explaining the importance of political engagement and involvement to my peers:
Today was spent exploring the Iveagh Gardens, a public park often overshadowed by the nearby (and larger) Saint Stephen's Green, as well as by the surrounding buildings. The site maintains the sculpted, European-style found in the Green and Merrion Square, but its more exclusive nature is a welcome contrast to the more tourist-filled others. Unfortunately the sizable stone and statue fountains were not yet active, but a small hedge maze provided a nice diversion - even with two Irish ladies reminding me not to cheat.
Otherwise, I finished my History essay - Understanding Women's Reactions to the 1937 Constitution, galvanized the regulars to take trips to Phoenix Park and Dun Leary next weekend, and will watch the Revolution season opener tonight against Los Angeles due in part to a fortuitous delay in daylight savings in Ireland that will place the game at midnight our time.
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