Saint Patrick's Day in Dublin

Either my 8th grade geography teacher Mr. Vasile had it wrong or times have changed over the last several years. The Ireland I was told to expect on Saint Patrick's Day was a country that embraced church attendance rather than American-style binge drinking. Of course that may still be the case, as many of my Irish friends fled Dublin and refrained from wearing green as the city filled with leprechaun-themed tourists.

On Wednesday, my friend Mitch arrived at Trinity from his year studying abroad at Oxford. After a quick tour of campus and the Old Library/Book of Kells we left for Saint Stephen's Green and the free céilí concert. Grafton street was abuzz with green clad tourists covered in the latest cheap merchandise from the street vendors complementing the year-round Carrolls. Among the tourists were the regular street performers, human statues, and musicians to liberate a few more euros from the passerby.

At the concert a crowd of a couple hundred gathered to learn traditional Irish dances from the on-stage performers. After listening to a few songs, we walked about the Green and down to Merrion Square where a carnival had seemed to materialize on the street in front of the park. Complete with a ferris wheel, a fun-house, and various spinning rides. Joining Emma and her friends back at the concert, we were entertained by not a few less than sober groups who managed to complete the more intricate maneuvers with apparent ease.

Parade Route

Full Saint Patrick's Day Album

Heeding our emerging hunger, the several of us left for the Mona Lisa and yet another somewhat secret student menu dinner. With meals ranging from five to seven euro, and with discounted drinks, it is the natural choice for a dinner away from Goldsmith. Of course after dinner we celebrated Saint Patrick's Day Eve at MacTorcaills and were joined throughout the night by the rest of the regulars - and of course their visiting friends for the following day. Befitting our favorite pub, the Cheers theme was the final tune of the night.

At a time perhaps earlier than I would have liked to wake up, we gathered our senses and headed to Frances' next door apartment for crêpes - complete with nutella and sliced bananas - and a couple choice beverages. Unfortunately the strict rules on visitors and an alert guard prevented everyone from joining breakfast. Still, it was then that Frances' roommate Kiernan pointed out that actual Irish avoid wearing green, to the chagrin of group covered in "limited edition" Dublin Saint Patrick's Day T-shirts. I of course wore my vintage, 1980s family reunions "The Cavanaughs" ringer T with a measure of pride.

Following breakfast, we left for the front of campus and the parade route that wound its way from past O'Connell street across the Westmoreland Ave to Grafton and down towards Merrion Square. Of course arriving after the noon start time ensured that the streets were crowded and that most ledges on buildings were already occupied. Some creative spectators brought their own ladders to see over the lucky few who pressed up against the fences lining the route.

Looking for a decent vantage point, we reached the end of Westmoreland Ave and from an opening saw the sea of people lining the route down O'Connell street. Before despairing, I noticed an unoccupied ledge along the building abutting the street corner, and was promptly hoisted by Mitch onto the narrow space. Soon after Kathryn's cousin joined me a long the ledge, and from there we could narrate the strange floats that started towards us just minutes later.

Scenes from of the parade from the ledge

Although I had failed to read the story, I knew that the floats were designed based on the work "Brilliant" by Roddy Doyle. Before the parade ended, Mitch borrowed a copy of the program which added some clarity to the eight chapters. With a nice tie-in to the Ireland's financial woes, the story tells of a dog stealing Dublin's funny bone, and after a series of misadventures, the community banishes it with the word "Brilliant" to return laughter to the city.

After the final chapter, we left the corner for MacTorcaills and lunch. There we met a few of the regulars who entry to Frances' apartment who were denied entry by the security guard earlier that morning. A quick lunch of sausages and chips was followed by a jaunt to the Merrion Square carnival. Once there, we entered the fun house (for the low cost of 3 euro), were entertained by the numerous spinning components, and took it a step further with a ride on the ski slope circular ride that whips two person carts along at a steadily increasing pace. Naturally the box game followed the carnival, with the many visitors eager to learn our favorite Irish game.

The AU Crew after the Carnival

The day ended in the early hours of Friday morning following our third trip to MacTorcaills which included our occupation of the back room of the pub. Of course an in-between trip to Supermac's for some cheaper-than-McDonald's fast food was a must for dinner.

Given the adventures of the nights before, Friday was low key (beyond two lectures), with plans for sightseeing and essay writing this weekend.