Castles in the Sky

MONDAY

With Jorge and Ana working during the day, I followed their advice and took the train from Rossio Railway Station by Praça de D. Pedro IV to the town of Sintra, which famous as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The 40 minute trip was well worth the 4.10 euro (round-trip) cost. In addition, the town is prepared to handle visitors as the train station hosts a tourism office that directs you to the nearby 434 'Pena Sightseeing' Bus (4.80 round-trip), which climbs the hills every 20 minutes.

After passing by the historic town center, the full bus turned up the narrow and steep roads that ascend the hills boast the 9th/10th Century Moorish Castle and 19th Century Palace of Pena. I opted to remain on the bus until we reached the Palace, and once there I purchased a 12 euro combined ticket to visit both it and the nearby castle. Other tickets are available and include the remaining palaces and museums in the town.

From the front gates, it is a quick 10 minute walk up well-maintained cobblestone paths to the summit and the Palace. Before the 19th Century opulence graced the territory, a series of chapels and monasteries thrived there from the 1500s until the Lisbon Earthquake of 1755. In the 1800s the Crown assumed control of the land, and proceeded to construct the Palace with facades of vibrant yellows, blues, and reds, exterior walls covered in ornate tiles and statues, and various towers and ramparts that protect hidden courtyards. While not only recognized by UNESCO, the building is considered one of the '7 Wonders of Portugal,' and is a fine example of Romanesque architecture.

Palace of Pena

Photography is not permitted inside the Palace, which is filled with artifacts and artwork from around the world. There is a marble altar inside the chapel that depicts various instances in the life of Christ which towers to the ceiling and leaves one to marvel in its grandeur. Around every corner and up to every ceiling are themes that evoke cultures from around the globe and present an astounding scale of wealth and detail. Adding to the statuary and furniture are views of the surrounding countryside, River Tagus, and Atlantic Ocean.

Those views are surpassed at the Cruz Alta ('High Cross'), which rises at eight or so feet from the true summit of the hill with the Palace. Reaching the Cross requires a journey up along the cobblestone paths, which wind around various outbuildings, statues, and gardens that dot the hillside. The King who commanded the construction of the Palace and Park desired a tropical destination that would concurrently evoke memories of his German homeland. The mix of ponds, exotic plants and architecture, along with towering domestic trees and winding paths accomplishes that desire.

The Moorish Castle is a short walk from the Palace, and while less grand in artwork and surviving structures, it nevertheless commands a visit. Several towers and a series of walls rise out of the summit of its hill, and each offers a spectacular view of the surrounding region. Unlike the smooth stonework of the Palace, the Castle is noticeably rougher and displays more visible wear from the elements. As with the other hill, the wind was fierce and polls that were supposed to display the historical flags of Portugal, were bare or bore only tatters whipping back and forth.

Moorish Castle

Full Sintra Album

Instead of locating the bus stop by the entrance to the Castle, I took another path down the hillside to the town below. With museums closed on Mondays, and feeling exhausted from the miles of walking, I soon boarded the train back to Lisbon. Leaving, I recognized that someone could devote weeks to Sintra without seeing all of its offerings.

Back in Lisbon, I soon met up with Ana and Manuel. We stopped for dinner at Principe do Calhariz, which abuts Bairo Alto. My massive steak dinner was priced for the college student, but was presented on the scale of fine dining. Following dinner, we entered the quiet streets of the art, music, and club district. Monday night is not the most exciting time to visit the area known for partying. Nevertheless, we stopped at Majong and enjoyed a couple drinks to finish the evening.