After preparing for the day, we set out for Kent Station to take the train to the port of Cobh ('Cove') in the south of the County. The small town is famous for serving as the final port of call for both 2.5 million emigrants between 1848 and 1950 as well as the final stop, on 11 April 1912, for the Titanic before its ill-fated voyage across the Atlantic. At the time the place was named 'Queenstown' in honor of the visit by Queen Victoria in 1849.
Following the declaration of the Free State in 1922 the town reverted to its previous name, Cove, though Gaelicised to 'Cobh.' Important to American history, the survivors and recovered victims of the Lusitania were brought to the town after the ship was sunk by a German submarine on 7 May 1915. Relevant to my ancestry, the town served as the home of my second great grandfather William Hennessey before he emigrated to the States.
Before boarding our 12pm train, we walked for a bit along the Lee River which is diverted into two canals that flow around the city's downtown. At Emmet Place by the Opera House we walked among the Saturday morning market that boasted many of the wares and foods that were offered at Howth a few weeks ago. Soon thereafter, we passed along the opposite bank of river in the direction of the station, and came upon four silver spires at 20 or so feet in height. Each contained a set of speakers that projected traditional music or somber stories and poetry by emigrants leaving Cork for the States or Australia.
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| Saint Colman's Cathedral with JFK Park in the foreground |
Once in Cobh we visited the Heritage Center housed in the former railway station. Much of the interior was intact with signs designating first class queues as well as luggage positioned along the walls to mimic those of the emigrants who went through in years past. Inside we collected a map and set out to explore the town.
Situated along considerable elevation, the town could match those along the Mediterranean with its bright pastel colored homes that wrap along the streets that look out onto the ocean. Walking along those streets, we came upon the Lusitania Memorial which consists of two figures cast in bronze by pillar topped with an angel beckoning them to her. Passing under the old Customs house we continued up the ever steepening road to reach Saint Colman's Cathedral.
Completed in 1915 at a cost of 235,000 pounds the Catholic Cathedral is the most prominent landmark in the town and boasts the largest carillon in Ireland. Unlike the expensive houses of worship in London, the Cathedral was free to tour and was magnificent for its enormous sculptures, Celtic-themed mosaic, and massive pipe organ. Near the front, I added my grandmother who passed away just after Thanksgiving and my Tio Americo, who passed away the Wednesday before, to the book for intercessions.
Leaving the Cathedral, we proceeded to the Old Church Cemetery. At the time we did not realize that it was two kilometers from the town, but once committed, continued on to site. Inside, the oldest grave was for an individual who passed away in late 1600's. While most stones were fading, some showed signs of recent repair to the face plates, perhaps by still living descendants.
After some searching we came upon the three stone markers for the mass graves for the recovered victims of the Lusitania. Of the 1,198 people who perished only 289 were recovered, and 169 were buried in the cemetery. Many of the 144 buried in the mass graves were unidentified and have only the roughly carved stones and the small faceplate with 'Lusitania 7 May 1915' to mark their burial.
Returning to town, we stopped at Gills for 'authentic fish and chips.' Given the beautiful weather, we took our massive lunches, wrapped in paper, to the John F. Kennedy Park that overlooks the water. Once we ate, we continued to move about Cobh, passing by the small memorial to the Titanic, the former offices of the White Star Line, and 'The Bench,' as advertised on street signs, but which was merely three nondescript, white benches that once looked out at the Titanic.
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| Our 'disappointment' after locating 'The Bench' |
Taking the 4:30pm train back to the City, we would leave the station without our tickets ever getting checked by any agent. Perhaps the warnings of high fines suffice, but we wondered whether we could have booked our seats for free.
Back at the hostel, we relaxed for a couple hours by resting and playing a few games of Mafia. Afterwards, we headed to Charlie's, a small pub by City Hall, as recommended to us by a couple at Eddie Rocket's the night before. With affordable drinks and a cheap atmosphere we nevertheless had to leave in search of dinner before the live music started.
Given our late decision, it was no surprise that we found food at the 24-hour McDonald's whose appearance seemed more like a chic restaurant than the greasy drive through franchises in the States. Following our less than cheap meal, a couple split off to return to Charlie's for music, while the rest of us met Emma's friends studying at the University of Cork to later visit the club Door 51.
Inside I purchased my first pint of Murphy's, a distinct and somewhat bitter taste as compared to Beamish and Guinness. Shortly after a glass light orb shattered on the bar, we departed for The Grafton and were soon thereafter back at our hostel.
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