Monday, April 18, 2011

Tuxedos, Bread, and il Papa

The last two weeks have been a whirlwind of activity. I suppose that may excuse the delay in this post.

Two weeks ago marked the last few days of class prior to my 4.5 week pre-final exam break. By that Monday, four lectures and two tutorials, 6 hours, remained in my class time at Trinity. Both Irish Politics and Comparative Welfare States lectures ended the week before. Still, due to a scheduling change, and for the only time throughout the semester, I had at least one class each day of the week.

Wednesday marked our final celebration as a crew - both American and Irish - with MacTorcaills Farewell, MacTorcaills Forever. Attendance was as near mandatory as possible, with some emerging from the woodwork to join for the final shindig. Although we only lasted until 5am, the semester came full circle with the box game at Russell's.

Thursday forced a tough realization that high marks are difficult to come by at Trinity, with my first graded paper returned in Irish Politics. Although a 58% sounds terrible in the US, it translates into a B in the States (a 66% is an A). Despite having already spent over a week on my second 1700 word paper, which accounts for the other 50% of my grade, I examined the comments and engaged in some serious revision to hopefully engender a better result.

After my last lecture on Friday, my break started, and Trinity Ball loomed. At 5pm, Sean and I gathered our beverages and made for Shawna's house in distant Dublin 14. Our first ride on a city bus was uneventful, but the gathering proved to be a lively event, eclipsed only by the Sun that was the Ball. The metrics attest to the scale: 8,000 tickets, 19 bands, 4 tent venues, 1 outdoor venue, and formal attire. From 10pm to 5am, we partook in a debauchery that exceeded any prior experience. I would only return to Goldsmith after noon on Saturday.

Composition from the Ball

Sunday marked the start of my six-day trip to Italy. Following a smooth Ryan Air flight to Rome Ciampino Airport, I met an Australian woman who teaches English at the American University of Rome. We took the same Terravision bus to Termini Station in the heart of the city, and she set me off with all the transit advice and metro tickets that I would need for the stay. Meeting her was invaluable. And to supplement her help, I met a pair of Swiss and Swedish girls on the bus, who were studying Italian and would be taking the same Tram as I. With their help, I arrived at Gabby's apartment with ease.

A quick 2.25 hour trip by Sulga bus to Perugia in Umbria was followed by some identification difficulty and then a short 40 minute ride with my first cousin once removed to his organic farm in the nearby hills.  Somewhere between meeting his wife Birgit and youngest daughter Ela, eating a few delicious meals and deserts, drinking authentic Italian cappuccino, meeting three donkeys, a cat, and two guinea pigs; and seeing his oldest daughter Sara for the first time in a few years, John and I managed to discuss all matters of philosophic and political importance.

Following a short endeavor with a few bee hives, lunch, and waiting for Ela to return from her practice leaving certification exam, we filled John's car and left for Assisi, famous for a certain Saint Francis. Beyond its several churches, which included two massive cathedrals, the town afforded a spectacular view of the Tiber River Valley and the pink/tan sandstone buildings with red tile roofs expected of Italy. After seeing a couple entombed saints and exploring various side streets for picture opportunities, we visited a nearby restaurant that John and Birgit had eaten at in their first stay in Assisi a few decades ago. The huge hearth and writing-covered wall added to a warm and inviting atmosphere with, as expected, more delicious food.

Me with Sara, Birgit and John in Assisi (Ela was the photographer)
On Wednesday, and in between reading portions of A Brief History of Nearly Everything, John and Birgit made over 90 loaves of bread to sell to their loyal customers in Perugia on Thursday. Their process was near second nature with deft movements and muscle memory producing delicious loaves in a quick and precise manner. My assistance came in building the fire to heat the large outdoor stove.

The next day, we returned to Perugia. Sara and I explored the underground, Roman labyrinth of Rocca Paolina, the heavily frescoed Cathedral of San Lorenzo, and religious imagery-filled National Gallery while Ela attended class and her parents distributed the bread from the day before. Later on, and after a cappuccino, I was en route to Rome, and soon after that back at Gabby's. At the apartment I was greeted by Dara and Gabby's roommate Rachel, who had helped create a well-time dinner of shrimp and pasta. We made good use of my cousin's dogwood and apple jam too.

The next day, we made use of Culture Week in Rome with free visits to the Colosseum and the Forum. Walking among artifacts of one of the most powerful and lasting empires of human history is inspiring at minimum, with the power of the ruins contrasting the graffitied walls of modern Rome. After spending ten cents for luck at the Trevi Fountain, walking through the Pantheon, and visiting the Fountain to the Four River Gods, Dara, Gabby, and I were ready to reunite with Zoe and Becca for our tour of the opulent Vatican museum.

Gabby, Dara and I in the Pantheon
Full Italy Album

12 euro tickets allowed us to skip the lines and see the neutered Roman statues, lavishly frescoed halls, famous Raphael paintings such as the School of Athens and the crowing of Charlemagne, and the much anticipated Sistine Chapel. While the latter was magnificent, it was underwhelming given the hype and the equally impressive artwork dotting the pilgrimage through the halls it followed. One night out later, and I was back in Dublin following a morning flight.

On Sunday, and despite having to sprint for their plane in Philadelphia, my parents arrived in Dublin. We explored campus: touring the Book of Kells and the Old library, visiting the new Human+ exhibit in the science gallery, and watching some Trinity cricket and rugby. Between always expensive Dublin lunches and dinners we walked through Saint Stephen's Green, and made plans to tour the Guinness and Jameson Breweries tomorrow.

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